About two years ago, I wrote a blog entry about the “Perfect” Crochet Rose. That entry has gotten so many views and comments (thank you for those!), and it has been linked on several other blogs. The pattern wasn’t originally mine, and even the so-called original pattern I linked in the first blog post wasn’t the actual original pattern. The pattern I first followed, and altered to my liking, can be found here (scroll down): StripMethodRose. I have used the webpage to construct the following pattern.
Because of this confusing mess of patterns and alteration patters, I’ve decided to make a somewhat clearer post about the Strip Method Crochet Rose -pattern, with additional photos, in case anyone wishes to recreate the exact “perfect” crochet rose featured here. Although, keep in mind that you can alter the rose to your liking, big or small, multi-layered or simple, just by controlling the amount and size of the petals.
CROCHET ROSE – PATTERN
||chain, chain stitch
||US double crochet (UK treble) (dcs = plural)
||US single crochet (UK double crochet)
Yarn: I used Novita’s crochet yarn for this particular rose. The yarn is 100% mercerised cotton. (You can pretty much use any yarn you wish.) I find that a rather thin yarn works best.
Hook: Depending on thickness (weight) of your yarn, use whichever hook suitable. For Novita’s crochet yarn, I used JMRA’s hook size 1,25mm (8).
And a needle to stitch it all up!
Note 1: You can either leave a long tail of yarn at the start or at the finish of the rose (or both ends), to stitch the strip of petals together. (I leave a tail at the end, after fastening the last row off, so the long yarn tail at the start won’t get in the way.)
Note 2: The example rose includes 39 petals. See alterations below if you wish to make a larger/smaller rose.
Row 1: Make as many chains as you wish, in order to create a rose the size you wish.
(See below: alterations A.)
For this example rose: make 118ch. Then, into 4th ch from the hook work 1dc. After that, *1ch, skip 2ch from the chain row, and [1dc, 2ch, 1dc] into the next st*. The first row looks like a row of V-shapes. Repeat *-* to the end of the chain stitches. Turn.
(You should have 39 V-shapes at the end of row 1.)
Row 2: First 3ch (counts as the first dc). Then: [1dc, 2ch, 2dc] into first 2-ch sp (in other words, work the next row into the V-shapes). From then on: *[2ch, 2dc, 2ch, 2dc] in next 2-ch sp*. Repeat *-* to the end. Turn.
Row 3: This is the row that creates the final petals. See alterations B below, for more information.
Start row 3 straight away with double crochet stitches after turning, working the double crochet stitches into the 2-ch spaces, and then attaching each petal to the next 2-ch space with a sc.
At the end of Row 2, you should still have 39 two-chain spaces, meaning you can create 39 petals. I have divided the petals and the amount of double crochet stitches made into them as follows:
- 10 petals of 10 dc
- 8 petals of 8 dc
- 7 petals of 7 dc
- 9 petals of 6 dc
- 3 petals of 5 dc
- 2 petals of 4 dc
So following this division, make [10dc into next 2-ch sp, 1sc into next 2-ch sp] 10 times in total. And then [8dc into next 2-ch sp, 1sc into next 2-ch sp] eight times.. and so on, until you get to the final petal of 4dc. Attach the final dc on top of the 3ch of the previous row with a sc or a slip stitch . Leave a tail long enough to weave in, and fasten off.
Assembling the rose
Roll up the rose, starting from the smallest petals. Roll the next layers around the base of the smallest petals. Keep the base of the rose flat so that the rose doesn’t turn into a spirally cone (try to look at the base too while you’re rolling it up).
(Of course, if you don’t want the rose to be flat, you can push the middle of the rose up a bit from the base, and then just stitch it up to fasten the new shape.)
Adjust the petals to the positions you want them to be in, and then stitch it all up, making sure that the petals aren’t moving too much.
Tip: You can roll the rose up so that either side of the strip is facing up (see photos below), if you want. The rose will look different if you make the “wrong” side face up. (See photos below!)
Right side up:
Wrong side up:
A) For the first row: If you wish to add more petals, increase the chain count by 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the first row, for each petal. For example, 38 petals means: 38 x 3 = 114 chains. Plus, add 4 chains for each calculation, as the first row starts with skipping the first 4 chains (this creates one petal). For example, if the total chain count is 118 chains, it will create 39 petals. A formula, if you will, is as follows: [the number of petals you want] x 3ch + 4ch
B) If you wish to change the size of the petals, you need to make more/less double-crochet stitches at the last row (row 3) into the 2-ch spaces. Depending on the thickness of your yarn, you can start with making, for example, 10dc into each petal, and then gradually make less and less dcs into each petal, or even make the same amount of dcs into each space, creating petals that are all the same size. Test out how the petals are divided into each rolled-up layer (for instance, if you make 10 petals that all have 9dc, they will create the base for the rose, then the next rolled-up layer will be smaller, so make fewer petals with less dc in them). My suggestion is that you should make a lot of medium-sized petals in the middle of the strip, with 6 or 7 dcs in them, and about one or two layers of bigger petals for the base, and just a few smaller petals for the center of the rose, where the roll is the tightest. (You can’t really tell how many dcs each petal has in the finished product, so this isn’t an exact science, but the rose rolls up differently depending on how big the petals are and how many petals there are to roll up. It’s all very trial-and-error.)
And that’s it!
Hope this post helped, and if not, leave a comment/question below, and I will try my best to help!
Thank you for viewing!
All images ©KatiCrafts. Please ask permission before using the images in this blog post. If you pin the images at Pinterest, please give credit to KatiCrafts. Thank you!
Please use the button below to pin: